Of Love & Painting - Dominica

Spring - Island Arts & Craft

Mance Lanctôt and Robert Chayer are Canadian artists who discovered Dominica in 1993 through a popular television show called ‘Travel, Travel’. The couple  was so struck by the island’s exquisite landscape, the beauty, the soulfulness of the people and the unique lifestyle that they have been returning every year since then.

Enchanted, and love struck they visit and dive into the infinitely rich and complex palette of this island. They are particularly drawn to Calibishie in the northeast, where they have found not only refuge, but the friendship and affection of many of the local people. Mance and Robert’s desire to attest to their profound attachment to the people and their island constitutes the course of the couple’s artistic work.

This morning Lyne, the beauty, sits for me. We are in the village, in the backyard of Janet William’s refreshment bar by the sea. A group of children have gathered to watch us. They have helped me bring my gear: easel, paint tubes, brushes, canvas, not to mention my ropes and pickets to fasten my easel against the frequent gusts of wind. Lyne settles herself on the wooden bench under a large twisted sea grape tree, mangled by wind and sea. I hear the whispers and hushed giggles of the children watching behind me. I carefully spread my paints on the palette. For more than three hours, from shape to shape, contrast to nuance, shade to light, I follow the road before me. I explore Lyne’s unique forms and discover the blue smudge under her eye, the trembling of her lip, the perfection of her nostrils, and the smooth flesh of her neck; so many little details to inspire wonder and awe. Lyne recognizes herself. “You really see me inside,” she says to me. She is both surprised and delighted. A part of her is revealed on the canvas. A part of me accompanies her. In the spring of 2007,

I completed a series of portraits in the village: Lyne, Kelly, Gilbert, Valda, Primus, Fe, George and Heather. They are dear to me. They are ever present with me.

5:30 AM. With my neighbour’s morning songs as background, I squeeze a grapefruit, freshly picked by my friend Matthew. “Thank you Big Ben!” Next I pour myself a Caco Tea, a traditional drink: grated local chocolate that has been flavored with cinnamon, nutmeg and cloves, mixed in hot milk. I see Mrs. Fe come out of her house. “Good Morning Fe!” In Dominica, not greeting someone means you risk having a bad day. I don’t take any chances. I offer my greetings to all who will hear, and I’m always generously greeted in return. With sketchbook and camera in hand I leave in search of my location. Today I want to explore a path that meanders around the Red Rocks. This massive body of rocks, like a lion’s head, moves into the sea. From the point there is a panoramic view of the Guadeloupe Archipelago. What a beautiful day! There are these particular mornings in the Antilles that lift the soul, and under the warm sun we seem to evaporate like the dew. As I rummage through the forest I push aside the branches of a shrub and an aroma emerges. It’s the Bay Rum tree, pimento racemosa. I slip a few leaves into my bag. It will be a delicious flavour addition to my one pot stew tonight. The path snakes along the cliff. Looking for a spot open enough to be able to install all my painting equipment, I notice this clearing. From here I have my desired viewpoint. To my right, sunlight flashes against the rocks. On the horizon the island of Marie Galante floats on the French Blue sea (bleu français), and at my feet the waves crash against the rocks in a milky froth that retreats into turquoise depths.

Some of the couple’s work may be seen at the Calibishie Tourism Centre.

For further information contact the artists,
Mance at mance.lanctot@hotmail.com and
Robert at r.chayer@hotmail.com